On Travis Street, The Establishment Is Blowing Up the Blah

A new restaurant has the chance to pull off something precious.

That lamb sirloin could have been removed from the heat a touch sooner, as could that jiggling egg whose yolk was close to set. Hammer's kitchen tends to cook with a heavy hand.

That charcuterie that's hanging in the morgue is another sticking point. Rendered into a pasta sauce, guanciale eats like the king of bacons, but while it's safe to do, it's not all that common to see guanciale served uncooked, probably because the experience shares a lot in common with eating raw bacon. The lardo on a charcuterie board was a little unsettling too, cut so thick you had to chew it a little, when you'd rather it melt away on your tongue like a pleasant memory.

Desserts, including a banana pudding filled with Nilla wafers in a jar, come off clunky, which is a shame because you want a meal that started off with a quenelle of smoked trout rillettes and perfectly shucked oysters to end with just as much fanfare.

Location Info

Map

The Establishment

4513 Travis St
Dallas, TX 75205

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Park Cities

Details

The Establishment

4513 Travis St., 214-520-0900, est-dallas.com, 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday, $$$

Trout rillette, $8

Scallop sashimi, $12

Duck wings, $10

Halibut, $16

Artichokes, $13

Somehow, the missteps and execution errors come off as potential improvements instead of a list of disappointments. Hammer has a rough-cut gem in the ornate dining experience he's crafted for The Establishment. There's an appreciation for quality ingredients and a sense of adventure that's taking shape here, and it's in stark contrast to the surrounding restaurants. It's time to polish the stone.

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2 comments
crys41
crys41

Henderson stops at 75. This section is Knox

mdd0124
mdd0124

@crys41 I came here to comment this.

And not only that,  but that snide comment about Chipotle. There's one literally two blocks over, at the corner of Mckinney and Armstrong. Maybe the author should have done a tad more research.

 
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