Best Mexican restaurant (2000)

Ciudad D.F.

Everyone now knows that real Mexicans rarely eat a steady diet of nachos, burritos, stiff tacos, and Mescal worms. Real Mexicans eat limp tacos and veal short ribs braised in red mole--at least the haute ones do. Monica Greene's Dallas interpretation of Mexico City cuisine is at once intriguing, dazzling, and soothing--from the clay-pot fish entres to the chicken tacos. Maybe they'll even drape a couple of Mescal worms on a salad every now and then.