Best neighborhood restaurant (2000)
OK, so this little restaurant is tucked into a strip mall. But it's outfitted to resemble a sophisticated country café, with lacy curtains that delicately refract light in a cozily assembled dining room that's tight but comfortable. It's casual but sharp, with a sweet caviar-in-the-rough feel. Plus, the kitchen is directed by chef and owner Gilbert Garza, whose grasp of Tuscan cuisine adds a lyrical thread.