India Palace gushes with fine interior appointments--and pink. The large space is portioned into separate rooms where candles flicker and chandeliers glow. Pink drips from the walls and linens. The servers are finely dressed. Hooch is available. The breads--warm naan, a leavened white bread; tandoori roti, unleavened wheat bread; and aloo paratha, wheat bread stuffed with potatoes and peas--is delicious. Just about everything has a deft touch. Chicken tikka Marsala, diced tandoori chicken cooked in a tomato, onion and herb cream sauce, is lush, with juicy, firm pieces of meat. Vegetable samosas are remarkable. But it's the dishes employing the balti cooking technique that arouse the most. Balti shrimp and chicken, served in a silver dish with two tiny looped handles on the sides, is drenched in a lusty, aromatic sauce with pieces of moist, tender chicken. Nothing pink there.
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