Ten Bells makes marvelous pub grub, so it stands to reason that their take on wings, the ultimate bar food, would be great. They're also quite a departure from the pedestrian Frank's-slathered slabs of gristle served with a ramekin of Kraft blue cheese dressing and a scattering of limp celery. These instead are big and tender, crispy and coated with a tangy spin on barbecue sauce that's just spicy enough, with a bowl of dank, musky "blue cheese fondue" in place of the usual dressing. You'll still need plenty of napkins, though, no matter how upscale these wings may be.