We'll be honest here: We don't like our squid fried. It's not the concept, it's the execution. Virtually all of it in Dallas is either greasy and tepid or greasy and tepid with a dipping sauce. And then there's the primordial fear most kitchens have of tentacles. What's with this suction cup phobia? Does it stem from childhood traumas of being shuttled in cars warm with Garfields and "Baby on Board" signs? Instead of trying to conquer the underachievement of fried calamari, Daniele Osteria circumvents it with this: calamari alla griglia. Creamy white body tubes are grilled, covered with olive oil and lemon, and served with an orange salad. That's it. The orange is slightly chilled; the squid tubes are hot...hot. The meat cleaves easily as the fork sinks into the dirty bronze grill gauze surrounding these milky body socks. Contrasts bubble: clean orange acids jabbing at meat moist with marine sweat; dismembered citrus pressing against whole bodies.


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The Grape Restaurant 2808 Greenville Ave. 214-828-1981