You-Chun is small and simple. Proof: A water cooler with hot and cold spouts dispenses water and tea. The menu is brief. Proof: Under "meat dish" there is just one dish, an exquisite beef rib served sizzling with white, crisp onion shards. Meat is impeccable: juicy, rich, loaded with flavor, easy to pinch with chopsticks. Korean dumpling hot soup is a clean, slightly dark green broth with a strain of pungency that holds yellow strings of egg and strips of seaweed. Dumplings are tender but firm noodle pouches with just the right amount of give. Entrées are served with the usual array of Korean meal components: kimchi (fermented cabbage); salad; pale yellow strands of dried squid dotted with dark sesame seeds. Cold spicy noodle with sashimi is tangled with supple arrowroot pasta with ray meat in a stainless steel bowl. A thin but large half-moon slice of Asian pear and a hard-boiled egg rests on top. You-Chun is hard-core but clean. Culinary adventurers seem to amuse the staff, and the chef travels from the kitchen to offer dining pointers.