We like the shoes the servers wear in this barbecue joint, mostly for their inspired classic look: Mary Janes, the strapped shoes styled after the traditional shoes children wore more than a half-century ago. These shoes are touchingly framed by lacy anklets, creating a heartwarming, homey image from a simpler time: one of innocence, where simple rib-sticking barbecue and a beer mug as big as a sumo wrestler was all one needed to know life was good. It isn't the hot pants, the glittery belts, the highly exposed midriffs, the plunging necklines on the teeny tops or the dangle of navel bangles donned by this tanned and taut platoon of servers that warms our tickers. It's the shoes. Did you hear us? WE LIKE THE SHOES. So shut the hell up.