The days of sneaking around the kitchen while grandma makes her special souffl? are over. Oh, the souffl?s can still be had, but thanks to Hedda Gioia?s Rise No. 1, the mood has definitely lightened. The bustling eatery with its browse-able shelves of recycled wine-bottle glasses (short from the white bottles, tall from the red), Torchon (French-made, embroidered towels), books and those special hidden brass frogs, just feels like a little French bistro in the middle of a funky garden...which, no doubt, is hard to accomplish in the middle of Inwood Village. The decor is a little rustic and wild and contrasts beautifully with the sometimes 6-inch souffl?s that grace the tables. Lobster, escargot, mushroom. Raspberry, bread pudding, chocolate. Savory or sweet, chef Cherif Brahmi?s souffl?s are decadent but not freakishly high in calories, satisfying and yet light (don?t fret, servers are skilled at recommendations). Grandma would totally approve.