Get it with brunch—a pile of these dry ham flakes on the side—and you'll wonder why you bothered ordering anything else. The ham has a way of taking over. Smoked out back with a blend of mesquite, pecan, cedar and oak, or in the hundred-year-old smokehouse indoors, a taste of chef Tim Byres' ham is like discovering a whole new animal. Nothing about it suggests the watery vacuum-sealed lunch meat you knew before. You'll find there are fatty pieces and crustier ones, but all of it sweet, smoky and hard to forget—and, we'll just come out and say it, oddly like the breading on a Chicken McNugget. An unlikely comparison, maybe, but in the city's best spot for fancy barbecue, it's the standout meat. You'll realize it's what ham should taste like, and everyone else is doing it wrong.