Shenanigans Seafood and Steakhouse is going back to the beginning. Last fall, Ram International, a Lakewood, Washington-based restaurant company, changed its Humperdink's Chophouse to Shenanigans, a restaurant Ram has had success with in the Pacific Northwest for roughly two decades. But Dallas didn't bite. "People have not responded to the Shenanigans name," says Shenanigans/Humperdink's manager Ricky Nichols. So the spot on the Dallas North Tollway with the two-story back bar has reverted to Humperdink's Chophouse. Ram has about five other concepts, so maybe that spot on the tollway will change a few more times...James Johnson has been tapped as chef de cuisine for Paris Vendome, the restaurant Mico Rodriguez of the M Crowd/Restaurant Life plans to open in mid-March in the West Village. Johnson has done stints at the Mansion on Turtle Creek as well as the Platinum Club at the American Airlines Center. Rodriguez also has pulled in Alex Jureeratana as "managing partner." Jureeratana, formerly maître d' and restaurant manager at the Mansion, will focus primarily on Citizen...The Wine Institute released data showing that total wine shipments to the U.S. market from all production sources hit some 569 gallons in 2001, a 1 percent uptick over 2000. The data also show that consumers are thirsty for chardonnay, which jumped 8 percent in 2001, accounting for 27 percent of wine sales revenues in supermarkets. Chardonnay handily edged out merlot (14 percent), cabernet sauvignon (12 percent) and white zinfandel (9 percent).