Quiet, white tablecloth French restaurant has been open since the mid-1980s. The service and some of the cooking seems a lot older-and that's a good thing if you're a fan of traditional dishes such as duck l'orange or steak au poivre.
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The gold glint of chardonnay is tarnishing. Merlot is passé. Gad, even cabernet is sliding slightly in popularity. Syrah, pinot noir, pinot grigio (why does so much of it taste like two Bayer dissolved in Evian?) are ascendan...