Bolla

Bolla is chef David Bull's (late of the Driskill Hotel in Austin, Iron Chef gladiator, Mansion alum) interpretation of "modern" Italian. The cuisine is careful and exacting, though its strokes of originality sometimes come across more as mesmerizing charms than as means to flavorful ends. Risotto stumbles and pork diavolo confounds while duck leg confit ravioli, beef tartare and roasted beet salad revel in an off-kilter exquisiteness. Bull's culinary installations seem like demolitions administered by Rembrandt.