Bullion

With a collection of specially commissioned sculptures and a dining room that’s literally a gold bar on the side of a skyscraper, Bullion is one of the most ambitious restaurants Dallas has seen in years. It’s also one of the best, with a deep cast of talented chefs producing elegant, but not pretentious, updates on classic French foods. Dig through the superb bread basket, share maybe the city’s best beef tartare and revel in the exquisitely cooked seafood. (Grab a side order of crispy bistro-style pommes frites, too.) A superb, all-French wine program, outstanding desserts by pastry star Ricchi Sanchez and world-class people-watching complement the excellent dinners.

Top pick: Many of the best meals are rotating daily specials, which change seasonally and always represent chef Bruno Davaillon’s technique at its peak.

The downside: Last year, we heard lots of reports that Bullion’s service falls down somewhat when the customer isn’t recognized as a newspaper food critic. Some of that lesson has been learned, reportedly, but a literal gold bar full of sculptures is probably always going to play favorites to some extent.

Fun fact: The entrance, at the corner of Young and Record streets, is a grand spiral staircase direct from the sidewalk; ask the valet if you need an elevator.