It is perhaps redundant to point out that Chef Hsu has an all-you-can-eat "super buffet" at lunch packed with fresh, fried, braised, sautéed and steamed foods, plus fortune cookies. And chopsticks. What isn't redundant to point out is that most of this Chinese food is delicious: fresh, greaseless and tasty without that nasty steam-table shrivel that can sometimes make egg foo yong look like melted auto parts. But the real gems stud the à la carte menu with its braised sea cucumbers, fried and braised whole fish and braised shark's fin. Even the bravest buffet tables wouldn't go near these slivers of delicious Chinese exotica.
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There aren't many places around Dallas where you can eat a sea cucumber family-style. Heck, there probably aren't many places outside of municipalities with China Town tracts that serve the wormlike sea creature. But the cucumbers a...