The longstanding Hardeman's is now owned by Cory Toney, though he kept the old brick pit, the hickory wood and several veteran staffers. The brisket is rich with smoke, just as Hardeman's fans remember. But C.T. added soul food to the list, from acquired tastes (think chitlins) to some of the city's best catfish.
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Even over the phone, you can feel Corey Toney's smile when he talks about his South Dallas barbecue joint, C.T.'s Real Deal BBQ. "There's a brick pit back there," he says. "When that hickory gets in the pit, it just seasons the bric...