There is no Korean food here. Well, there are some rice bowls, I suppose, but they only pay lip service to the complexities of authentic Korean cookery. There’s sushi, though, and lots of it. The sushi bar turns out enough rolls with goofy names to fill the entire side of a one-page menu. That menu is geared for the timid. Want to try sushi but afraid of the seaweed? Have the superman burrito: a sizable tuna crab and salmon roll bound in soft soy paper instead of seaweed. Other items aren’t inventive, but they taste fresh. It’s like better-than-average strip-mall sushi dressed up for the ball and tucked into Uptown right on McKinney Avenue.
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Gui rests on history. This cubed structure on McKinney Avenue has slowly morphed, traversing cultures with global hybrids—some eventually dumbed down for your pleasure—simmering within. In mid-1990s it was Yellow, Avner ...