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Sassetta

1617 Hi Line Drive, Suite 395
Dallas, Texas 75207
214-307-5695
Best Of
Sassetta +

Alison McLean

Details

  • 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
What pizza to try at Sassetta? How about all of them? They’re about the right size for two people or one person who wants to take a few slices home for breakfast. The crusts are divine: ultrathin but crisp all the way through, with the edges bubbly, flour-dusted and gently charred. Pizza centers never get soggy, thanks to the hot oven and the fact that the kitchen never goes overboard with toppings. Unusually, only two of Sassetta’s eight pizzas have red sauce. In the mood for pasta? Try the gemelli arrabbiata, with the fresh, perfectly al dente gemelli noodles — in the shape of short, double-barreled twist ties — bathed in a simple sauce that nails all the pleasures of arrabbiata: crackling pepper, sharp tomato acidity, an undercurrent of serious spice. No oddities, just pleasure. The carbonara is sheer delight, too, made with mafaldine, a pasta that looks like the wavy edges of lasagna without the flat section in the middle. Texturally, the housemade mafaldine is fun by itself, and it's even more fun when bolstered with finely ground walnuts, wilted spinach and cubes of pork jowl. It’s pure pleasure.

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