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Fresh oysters, clams and crab legs and an inland-oyster-bar atmosphere make this a festive spot, especially when the longnecks are flowing on the patio. The fried catfish (served with fat fries) is some of the best in town: crispy and greaseless. It's a mecca, too, for crawfish lovers. The signature shrimp cocktail is made with avocado, onions, tomatoes, cilantro and serrano peppers, served in a tall mug. Run like its little brother on Greenville Avenue--Aw Shucks--it has its traditions: no moist towelettes, no bottled cocktail sauce (you mix the pepper sauce and ketchup) and no check. The pay-at-the-door honor system makes you feel better about mankind.