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Bijoux opened in 2007 and quickly earned Best New Restaurant here at the Observer. Over the next five years chef Scott Gotlich cooked modern French cuisine that earned his restaurant a reputation for both refined and pricey dining. This year, however, Bijoux has been spun anew, with a lightened dining room and a bistro-style menu that supplements the Chef’s Tasting Room, which echoes the lavish experiences that made Bijoux popular. Entrees are now offered in full and half portions. Try the veal cheeks braised into tender and blissfully fatty, tiny pillows shrouded in richly reduced stock. Classics like escargot in pernod foie gras and lemon sole are available too. Those with the green can still indulge tasting menus that will bust wallets as quickly as they bust belt loops, but the others can take solace in a Gotlich menu priced for the rest of us.