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CLOSED An offshoot of French-trained chef Laurent Tourondel's New York BLT empire, BLT Steak is yet another feminized, contemporary interpretation of the smoky, dark, all-American steakhouse. BLT boasts high-back leather banquettes with curvaceous suede seating and brash crystal or alabaster chandeliers with fabric boxes that cast a buttery glow. Steaks are as good as you'd expect, though the costly Wagyu/Kobe renditions don't live up to their billing or their pricing (do they ever?). But the sculpted cubist tuna tartare is hard to beat; the simply sautéed Dover sole is astounding; and the venison loin is riveting. Plus there isn't a Sinatra/Bennett tremolo to be found. Steakhouse music is provided by the likes of Devo (Are we not men?).