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For some time, Central 214 was led by Blythe Beck, but now Graham Dodds mans the pass, fresh from an award-winning stint at Bolsa in Oak Cliff. His bone-marrow butter steak is a stunner. Dodds procures beef naturally raised in Texas, sears it to order and slathers it end to end in a beautiful compound butter, tricked out with herbs, soft garlic and bone marrow. Sure, it's heavy. Consider it a special-occasion dish. A house-made blood sausage stuffed into ravioli, and a delicious Scotch egg are standouts too. There are lamb's breast and beef short ribs and thin crispy ribbons of pig ears. There's an oxtail ragout. Are you seeing a pattern here? Dodds doesn't shy away from animal protein, but there's a certain elegance to his cooking. Hosted in the Hotel Palomar's downstairs dining room, Dodds’ cooking makes for compelling eating. And his bar snacks are a worthy accompaniment to a long session at the bar.