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With installments in New York, Las Vegas, Sonoma, D.C. and Reno, among other locales, chef Charlie Palmer's Dallas increment sits in the Joule Urban Resort in a rehabilitated Main Street building, in all of its Texas handsome, breezy-themed glory. So it at least has an old Dallas pedigree. Chew on the house-cured artisan salumi or the simply prepared vegetables dripping in brown butter without reservation. Savor seared foie gras or spoon bone marrow flan over a dry-aged sirloin. Dine on lentil-crusted monkfish or crisped arctic char. Or duck. The room glows like phosphorescent melted butter. Propellers turn overhead-an ode to Texas as big as a wind energy blowhard. Fiddle with the electronic wine list tablet and combine bottles from regions or grape varieties. Buy your bottles in the New Vintage retail shop to remember your electronically selected sips. No restaurant has brought so much to such a space of concentrated stylishness-doubly good that it's in the on-again, resuscitating downtown core. This is civic boosterism that hits the spot, boosted as it were from a foreigner.