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Not too far west on Interstate 20, past the last of Fort Worth's low-slung homes and on the road to Weatherford, farm country suddenly replaces all that suburban sprawl. Then, just as suddenly, rising from a bluff of brown scrub like some mirage of culinary salvation, is the sign for Clear Fork Station. The restaurant is the offspring of some boldfaced Fort Worth culinary names. Its founding chef (he just parted company with the place) is Grady Spears, the seemingly eternal cowboy-in-the-kitchen and one of the main culinary forces behind Reata, Lambert's and, most recently, his popular eponymous restaurant. Clear Fork's principal owner is Pam Benson, whose family has been involved with everything from Fort Worth's ultimate 24-hour diner, the Ol' South Pancake House, to the Japanese Palace. Though Spears may no longer be manning the grills of Clear Fork Station, his unfussy cowboy comfort-food style, infused with his signature chuck wagon and ranch kitchen sensibilities, is all over the restaurant's lunch and dinner menus. Menu highlights include the Niman Ranch slow-braised pork shank, chicken-fried steak and Mexican Caesar salad with firecracker shrimp. As for the atmosphere, Clear Fork makes no apologies for a decor that aspire to nothing short of a modern spin on the classic ranch-style saloon-restaurant.