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Hark, all you Twisted Root fans willing to wait 30 minutes to place an order at the beloved burger joint's Commerce Street location. Jason Boso has a better restaurant just down the street, and, shame on Dallas diners, it's rarely crowded. Cowboy Chow, where waiters greet tables with an enticing "Dr Pepper or whiskey?" is the rare example of cuisine transcending kitsch. There's plenty of frontier silliness here: Customers can gamble on the price of their appetizers, and Frito pie's served in a kettle. But the brisket's tender, the green tomato lollipops are expertly fried, and there's berry crumble for dessert.