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At eccolo, which means "here it is," all of Italy is injected into the supping roster. The menu and wine list (more than 200 bottlings strong) represents virtually every region in Italy, from Lombardia to Puglia. Eccolo was launched by Alvin Granoff, a former Texas legislator and part-owner of the Stoneleigh Hotel, and the food is crafted by chef Rick Robbins, a culinary heavy who is as skillful with complex dishes as he is with simple musings. The enoteca or wine library is rich in all of the lush fermented beauty Italy is known for: Brunello, Amarone, Barolo, Barbaresco and so on. Plus, the enoteca offers wine flights: 2-ounce pours sold in sets of three. Each day 15 to 21 different wines are offered focusing on the grapes and styles of Italy's wine regions. And none of the bottles comes in wicker baskets.