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Dallas needed an FT33. In fact, it needs more of them — restaurants where chefs are not only brave enough to think outside the box, but also diligent enough to do it well. Places like this shift a city’s dining culture for the better, and they’re also a lot of fun to visit. Where else can you get a cut of flap steak flanked with okra pieces and tiny tomatoes that taste like they’ve captured the entire sun, or mushroom sautéed with herbs and paired with potatoes that evoke a smoky campfire? Plates like these are hard to come by in Dallas, and the sleek minimalist dining room that sets the stage is a fine place for eating. So go eat. And then bemoan that more chefs in Dallas aren’t taking similar risks.