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No, Alton Brown is not in the kitchen dispensing his food-science knowledge with every menu item. This casual eatery, established in 1986 and with three Texas locations, isn't out to edify its customers. Rather, its mission is to woo patrons into ease and comfort. The menu reads like a roster of Lone Star and Southern staples. There is chicken-fried steak. There are mesquite-grilled meats like the Texas Star Signature Steak, a 9-ounce center-cut sirloin. There is the pervasive chili in such dishes as the Monday lunch-special King Ranch Enchilada and the Terlingua Chicken with a jalapeño glaze. However, lighter fare, including the Chicken Parmesan Pasta Ranch Favorite, dot the menu. The sides continue the hits with the black-eyed peas, pinto beans and okra.