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James Rowland's New American mesh ambles-like most N.A. menus-from Mediterranean to Asian to Southwestern. But what makes this place endearing are his experiments, like lobster bastard, a lobster omelet with American caviar, or his grilled pineapple and squash salad. Others don't work, like the ceviche with warm, gray seared tuna and remoulade. But it's all framed in staples such as roasted lamb, beautiful steaks and fresh fish.