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Nearly five years after opening in the cramped but hip enclave off of lowest Greenville Avenue, Jeffrey Yarbrough's groundbreaking (at least in Dallas) Asian fusion noodle house has flexed and moved to a strip mall on Lovers Lane. We all have to grow up some time. Yet while typical aging progressions might involve bifocals and dependable undergarments, this maturation process has been for the better. The space is roomy and handsome. The Asian cuisine--clipping pages from Thai, Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese, Laotian and Indian recipe collections--is tighter and more thoughtfully composed than ever. The wine list, appropriately quirky, fits the menu more snugly. And the birdcage chandeliers still flicker.