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Phil Romano's stab at a New England-style seafood shack comes off well. Lobsters are offered in more ways than you can cook a steak: steamed, grilled, kabobed, in pasta, in bisque, in cocktails--even in a potpie. The daily fresh fish is impeccable, as is the raw bar. But there are no crabs save for a couple of cakes and a cocktail. Crab-free is good in many contexts, but not this one.