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Like everything else in Victory Park, Nove is loud and sexed-up--almost to the point of absurdity, like with the floor-to-ceiling wine room light show and the Rubenesque topiaries on the patio fresh from cosmetic surgery. Nove has a great wine program and food that hits as much as it veers off course. Salumi platter is extraordinary, as is the grilled octopus and the whole market fish. Salmon works too. Approach the steaks with caution. If you're interested in food and wine and conversation, go on off nights at off hours. If you're interested in basking in Nove's sexed-up soup, primp your toes and prep your fingers. You'll need loud sign language.