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Ask anyone who's lived in Dallas long enough and they'll gush about the service at Pappas Brothers. The old-school steakhouse has been a Dallas fixture for more than 30 years, harkening an era when fine dining meant a trip to restaurant row. The setting has changed some, and now strip clubs outnumber fine dining restaurants in this West Dallas neighborhood, but that service people talk about is as polished as ever -- a firm handshake as you enter and exit the restaurant, the doting staff, the bartender who knows and pours an eclectic mix of wine and fine whiskeys. Steaks are big and butter-laden, and sides are heavy as well, but the service at Pappas is as coddling as ever.