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Marc Cassel"s return to the kitchen has been well-received, judging by the crowds inside (and cars clogging Henderson). But the former wild man of Dallas fine dining has changed his ways, focusing on down-home cooking. His version of chicken-fried steak is crisp and spicy-and often draws applause. He serves roasted chicken picnic basket-style. And there are a few surprises, such as grilled spring onions. If the food doesn"t get you, the scene definitely will.