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The best tacos on Rock 'N' Taco's menu aren't the most fashionable or ostentatious riffs on tradition: An $18 concoction of rib-eye, black beans and avocado was done in by overcooked beef. Instead, the frou-frou taquería excels at the classics, turning out serviceable versions of picadillo and braised pork shoulder. The restaurant's kitchen is sluggish, but it's a fair trade for freshness: Rock 'N' Taco makes its guacamole daily and serves a refreshingly crisp vegetable slaw with every order. Rock 'N' Taco is at its edible best during the day, when the servers in tight T-shirts don't have to contend with drunken customers and the kitchen crew is sharply focused.