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The iconic Dallas restaurant-the one made famous by Dean Fearing and his Southwestern duds-was cast adrift during (and especially after) chef John Tesar's brief tenure. But newcomer Bruno Davaillon has resurrected the grand old place through an infusion of fresh, local ingredients and French-honed technique. The shrimp cocktail is a revelation, using horseradish infused panna cotta and an intense tomato reduction to lift cocktail sauce to a new level, part whimsical, part ethereal. Colorado rack of lamb is supple and clean in flavor. Even when the chef lowers himself to cook good old Southern grits, they are organic and cooked ever so slowly until they emerge as airy, memorable polenta-like cakes.