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The specialty at this rarity -- a Chinese restaurant in Dallas -- is Xiao Long Bao (soup dumplings) revered by many as a delicacy too often botched. Royal China, opened in 1974, is still in the family. The original owner's son, Kai-Chi (aka George) Kao is now in charge. He cooks in the kitchen part-time, alongside chef Chung Shien Lin, who's been behind the wok for 10 years. The dumplings, however, are handmade at the Dumpling Bar by Yu-Xia Zhong and Hwa-Juan Shen. Aside from the signature scallion pancake, the kitchen puts out several renditions of hand-pulled noodles and chef's favorites like pork with edamame and jalapeño and the seafood hot pot. Though the white table clothes speak to refined dining, Royal China, in an upscale shopping center (Preston Royal), is a comfortable environment and its servers pleasant. The menu is as long as the rich history of China.