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Now a small sushi den and robata grill instead of the hibachi hyper-mart it was on the classic defunct spot on Greenville Avenue, Royal Tokyo has tweaked its food into a sublime experience. The sushi is more pert and supple. The robata offerings are inventive. The Kobe beef offerings are pure silk. Still, we miss the waterfalls, the gardens and the koi ponds that made this den's forebear such an enveloping gust of joy.