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Mama would no doubt approve of the Dixified menu at Screen Door, a comfortably elegant restaurant at One Arts Plaza. Executive chef David McMillan has taken full advantage of the imprecise "Southern" label, drawing inspiration from all corners of the region for his terrific tasso ham soup, cornmeal-encrusted oysters, cheesy shrimp-and-grits and warm sweet potato biscuits. Yet provenance isn't as riveting as the desserts, including a delicate coconut cake that would make any women's clubber proud, and an outrageously good lemon pudding soufflé. Mama might have seconds.