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Yutaka Yamato proves he can do comfort as well as class at Sharaku, the izakaya he opened a few doors down from his eponymous sushi bar. Sharaku's not designed as a dinner spot: It's a place to gather after work, drink beer and chew on chicken cartilage. While the grilled bones may be an acquired taste, no translation's needed for the supremely good fried shiitake mushroom skewers, beef spare ribs dabbed with a sweet soy sauce and flounder chips, a witty, fishy riff on nachos. For guests with more delicate palates, there's an extensive sake selection too.