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As the name implies, there is plenty of barbecue-from brisket to ribs to real Carolina-style pulled pork. But Smoke is more than a barbecue pit. Chef Tim Byres, formerly of Stephan Pyles, takes the name very literally. He cooks almost everything the restaurant offers over burning hardwood in the traditional way of the pre-electric South. Fresh fish and scallops carry a smoky tinge, as does house-cured meat and grilled vegetables. Breakfast is one of the city's best. But dinner ranks up there, too-as long as you don't mind smelling like smoke on your way home.