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Stephan Pyles has distilled Texan, South American, Spanish and Mediterranean flavors into one well-tailored, compelling clash. Pyles calls it New Millennium Southwestern Cuisine. This means you can mull a wide range of ceviches, tapas, foie gras with Peruvian underpinnings, Texas steak and salmon with crab paella and still go down for more. It's all wrapped in wood, granite, slate, plasterized concrete, copper weave, Texas flagstone and white tablecloth. The possibilities emerge in a stylized glass kitchen coop--the central reactor core--where chefs and hands perform and test, strike earnest poses and tame flames agitating from rotisseries, wood-fired ovens and blowtorches. Eat your liver out, Planet Hollywood.