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Run-down, gaudily appointed Chinese restaurants serving oily combos and lukewarm buffets are a dime a dozen, which is why this East Dallas establishment with a scallop tile roof stands out. While the affordable and tightly curated buffets (lunch: $6.95, dinner: $8.95) are the featured players, Szechwan's kitchen offers everything from standard fare, like beef with broccoli and crab Rangoon, to surprising chef-recommended dishes. Among the latter are Lamb Szechwan Style (sautéed with the chef's secret spicy sauce) and beef two ways (Szechwan Pavilion Beef Duet, with a pair of flavor presentations served with hot and mild sauces). The unusual and commonplace continue in the appetizers and regular combo plates all the way to the noodle dishes. Take, for example, chicken lo mein and the Five Taste Scallops (scallops cooked five ways).