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Sweet-as-pie owner Ms. Jan serves it up spicy. Proper West Indian vittles just roll that way. There's a smile, and then there's flame shooting out of your ears. Case in point: the jerk chicken wings with rice and cornbread. The real treat here is the oxtail, which is available most of the time. But you never know. It doesn't matter when it's washed down with a ginger beer. Remember, much Caribbean cuisine is born out of a tradition of poverty. Don't be surprised by the Styrofoam and plastic, nor the island-time service. It's the price one must pay for the spice fix.