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If you’ve been bored with the dining scene along Travis Street, you’ve either been gone for some time or you’re not paying attention. The Establishment opened in the old Trece space and the cooking is energetic enough to enliven the entire neighborhood. The oyster bar might not look inviting but the bivalves that leave it sure do, and what leaves chef Brent Hammer’s kitchen is almost guaranteed to keep you on your toes. Picture beets and strawberries served on a wooden board painted with cheese, or lamb served with ramps fried up to look like sea coral. The cooking is artistic and innovative, and for the most part very good. Have a bottle of wine pulled from the massive rack that separates the kitchen from the dining room, get a set out on the patio and get ready. You’re going to have fun.