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If it swims, it flies. The Oceanaire has fresh fish-Arctic char, Shetland Island trout, barracuda, red mullet, smoked sturgeon, thresher shark, blowfish-flown in from every conceivable global spot-Iceland, the East Coast, New Zealand, Panama, South America, Hawaii. The menu is driven by catch freshness and reshuffles daily-even hourly-as the market dictates. Have your catch prepped the way you want: simply grilled, broiled, sautéed, steamed or fried. There's a raw bar jammed with marine-misted lobsters, crab, clams and shrimp; an oyster selection of Wellfleets from Massachusetts, Malpeques from Prince Edward Island and Kumamotos from Oregon, or whatever else can catch flight. No other Dallas restaurant does seafood as varied or as fresh or as racy and unbridled. And so far, it seems, no one ever will.