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With a name that elicits grungy post-industrial wastelands, The Old Warsaw is anything but. This Uptown establishment has specialized in French Continental dining since 1948 -- white tablecloths and all. It is your daddy's Oldsmobile -- not that there is anything wrong with that. Live music sets the tone for a romantic dinner made even more so with any of the more than 460 wines and a menu that includes baked oysters with sautéed spinach, smoked apple bacon and Champagne sauce, separated into sections with fancy French words. If that isn't tony enough, order the lobster Thermidor.