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After a brief hiatus, Dallas' longtime fine-dining institution is back with most of its luster intact--plus something new, lunch service. The superb continental cuisine and polished service remain, with just a few small hitches on our visit. We enjoyed the excellent Caesar and house salads and the perfectly moist Chilean sea bass, and our youngster was treated graciously with house-made fried chicken tenders (it's not on the menu). The crème brulee flavored with Grand Marnier was outstanding.