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It's not easy getting into Tramontana at the lunch and dinner hour. Not because the place is super-exclusive but because its location in Preston Center is just west of traffic hell. But once you're inside with a glass of peach tea in front of you and the daily special on the way, you'll be glad you made the trip. Dishes like the pear salad and penne alla vodka are adventurous enough to be exciting but have enough classic pizzazz that you feel comfortable with your order. The halibut is phenomenal, and the service is ideal because it's practically invisible. True, the décor looks a bit like someone's middle-aged Martha Stewart-watching mother went way over budget with the mural work, but you'll be so focused on the food that you probably won't notice. Be sure to finish with a cup of coffee before heading out into the University Park traffic fray--you're going to need it.