By far the easiest part of my job is rounding up dining companions. No matter how forcefully I emphasize the rigors of a review dinner—there's no ordering what someone else at the table has already claimed or bogarting a dish, even if you were the one to find the world's most inspired crab au gratin squirreled away in a sides column—people will pretty reliably skip out on their friends' gallery openings and cancel important meetings to case a new restaurant... More >>>